October 3, 2003
By Bianca Coleman
Where: Cape Quarter, Waterkant St, Green Point.
Telephone: 021 421 3687
Open: For breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
Licence: Yes
Smoking: Outside
It was love at first sight. Not too difficult to achieve when you consider my pre-existing weakness for Italian, but this one just rolls every possible delight into one.
There is the deli, for starters, a thing of true beauty. It's crammed with every exotic ingredient imaginable. The light plays off the different shaped bottles of oil and vinegar, the gleaming jars of paste and spices.
Shelves filled with goodies from the far corners of the earth reach the ceiling. I cupped a tiny jar containing truffles in my hand for one precious moment. It cost hundreds of rand.
There is the tiny bar with a handsome barman (definitely points for that, as well as for a crew of table staff and management with oodles of personality), and there is outside seating ranging from tall tables for perching to couches for lounging.
And it's all the right size to create the noisy buzz that tells us we are having a fab time at a trendy, cool place. That you can't book a table and might have to wait only adds to the pleasure. Trust me, it's worth it.
Because then there is the food. During the course of this meal I must have tried and tested the patience of my friend as I endlessly rambled on about all the reasons I love eating Italian. It's the simplicity that gets me every time.
"What could be better than this?" I demanded rhetorically, a forkful of pasta in one hand, a glass of my Buitenverwachting Buiten Blanc in the other.
Not much. But perhaps a platter of delicious Italian cold meats, marinated roasted vegetables and chunks of warm bread? That's the antipasto misto (R43.40) that we shared to start
. Mortadella, copa, salami, Parma ham, artichokes, mushrooms, peppers, broccoli.
Jugs of green olive oil and balsamic vinegar are on the table. If there is one complaint it's that I would have preferred a coarse salt.
My mood was quite insistent about the pasta with salmon, leeks and cream as a main course, but when our pretty waitress told us about one of the specials, well, there was no contest: pasta vongole (R55). Apparently fresh clams are brought in from Namibia every Friday so it was time to take advantage.
You might be familiar with the baby clams you get in tins or jars. Forget them. These are the grandaddies of the family. And Ricky the chef/owner is not stingy with them either.
An enormous bowl came my way, piled with perfectly al dente pasta in a light tomato and garlic sauce with dozens of clams. The portion was big enough for two meals (much to Cat's delight the next day).
Another special was thinly sliced sirloin with rosemary, garlic and olive oil, and portabellini mushrooms. Another simple meal, bursting with flavour.
My friend had a pizza romano (R31.50) with capers, anchovies and fresh tomato for an extra R4.50. The size was standard, the base thin, crisp and not overtopped. Bowls of fresh garlic, chilli and grated parmesan are served on the side to appease our little fetishes.
Besides a range of pizzas and pastas, Andiamo also serves tramezzini and breakfast. Eat as little or as much as you want, whether it's a full meal or simply a mezze platter to soak up the endless drinks that you will want to order because it's such an awesome place to be.
With a bottle of wine, the bill came to R189.40 before tip.
All Tonight restaurant reviews are unannounced and paid for in full.
  
 
|
